Switzerland Day 5: Zermatt, Locarno

The next morning it was very foggy and rainy, so we thought we would try the Zermatt Lakes trail instead of taking the train up to Gornergrat, an extremely steep train ride up to an observation deck (and hotel) for the Matterhorn/Mt. Blanc and the Gorner Glacier. Unfortunately, the funicular (to Sunnegga) and the chairlift up to the starting point for the lakes trail (Blauherd), as well as the trail, were still closed for the season. We therefore decided to do the Gornergrat train, even knowing that visibility would be limited (check out their live video feed before going up!). 

 The Swiss Travel Pass gets you a discounted ticket, but it was still approximately $60 a person. The train runs frequently and makes 4 or so stops on the way up and down the mountain. We had thought, on the way down, to get off at one of the stops (Rotenboden) and do a hike down to the next stop (Riffelalp). But on the ride up we noticed that there was still some rather deep snow on the mountain… and the trail was closed. We did get off at Riffelberg and take some pictures below the fog/cloud line, though the trail to the restaurant and hotel that are at that station was snowed out (and the restaurant and hotel were not yet open anyway).

 We caught an earlier-than-expected series of trains to Locarno, starting out on the RE 41/42 to Visp, the EC to Domodossola, and the RE73 (Locarno FART – the right side has better views) to Locarno. The trip in total takes over 4+ hours and, given the number of trains involved, is only every hour or two, so check the train schedule when you get up in the morning! 

Tip on the EC: reserve your tickets in advance! The train was packed, standing room only, and most of the seats were reserved. 

Tip on the FART: It leaves from a subway-type station under the Locarno train station tracks… and there is basically no signage in the station or indication on the FART itself (ie a train number, “FART” or something similar) to indicate what it is! It does have a food/beverage cart, which is pretty necessary since the FART portion of the trip is ~2 hours...