We landed in Zurich around 11am, took a 20 minute train from the airport to the city (S2, S6, IC1, IR75 – all departing from the train platform), and transferred to another train to Lucerne (IR70 or IR75, both hourly), which takes around 45 minutes. In Lucerne:
After an hour or two in Lucerne, we headed to Trubschachen (the S6 or the RE7, which leave every half hour or so and take ~45 minutes) to visit the Kambly biscuit factory store, where there are tons of free samples of all the biscuits and crackers that this company (which I had never heard of) produces. There is also a café inside the store. We didn't find any baggage storage, but the factory is only a few-minute walk from the train station and there wasn't any problem with us bringing our bags inside while we wandered around for 20 minutes. Of course, you can buy packages of the cookies in a Swiss grocery store, just without the free samples.
Before hitting the biscuit factory, make sure to look up when the train leaving for Bern is (RE7, it takes ~an hour), because it only stops once an hour – and plan your time at the factory accordingly.
In Bern, we stayed in the old city at Hotel Nydeck, which was fine enough for the night and included a small breakfast. Note that all the rooms are up flights of stairs and there isn't an elevator.
We had a great dinner at Lotschberg; they offer a fondue for two with a glass of wine, a delicious salad, and some “air-dried beef” (which is on the menu in many places), apparently a Swiss specialty. I have a Swiss friend who also recommended these dinner places:
Bottom line: Lucern was fine but I don't know if it is a “must see” – though as it is on the way to Bern, if you have an hour or two, it is a convenient stop. Also not sure if the biscuit factory was worth it, unless you just go to snack, don't buy any biscuits, and then get some to take home at a grocery store nearer to the end of the trip. Definitely skip if you are tired and/or want to spend a few hours exploring Bern!
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